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The Internet Guide to Scotland

THE FAR NORTH OF SCOTLAND

Caithness and Sutherland

Transport

Sightseeing

Accommodation:
Hotels and B&Bs
Self Catering (cottages, apartments, lodges)

Location Map

The two areas of Caithness and Sutherland form Scotland's northern wilderness. Their scenery varies from wild cliffs and tiny islands to lonely moorland and remote sandy beaches with superb panoramic mountain views, plus tree-lined twisting roads and foaming rivers. Here you'll find dozens of ruined castles and ancient monuments, particularly in the east. There are also lots of golf courses and places where you can fish for salmon and trout.

The boggy half of Caithness and Sutherland is known as the Flow Country (from the Old Norse word Floi meaning marshy ground). If you were to dig down about 7 metres you would touch peat that is 7000 years old. It might not look that interesting, but in fact there are lots of birds here and many types of plant life, so really it is very rich in that respect.

photo
The mountains emerge from the clouds (around Ben Klibreck, north of Altnaharra)

How to get there

Coach:
The main Citylink coach route is from Inverness up the A9 and then west to Thurso/Scrabster for the Orkney ferry. It takes just over 2 hours to drive the 120 miles. See the Scottish Citylink website with timetables.
Stagecoach Buses also operate buses on this route and many others in the area (north and west).

Tim Dearman Coaches operate a service from Inverness to Dingwall, Strathpeffer and Ullapool which then continues northwards to Lochinver, Scourie and Durness (Smoo Cave). This is available Mondays to Saturdays 26th April 2010 to 25th Sept 2010, and Sundays 4th July to 29th August including all holidays. Bicycles can be carried. Departs Inverness bus station at 8.50am, returns to Inverness approx. 7.45pm. You can get hop on / hop off tickets to spread your travels over 6 days to allow you more time to explore. Tel: 01349 883585. See web site for complete timetable.

If you want to get from Inverness to John O'Groats, then take the Orkney Express which runs direct every day 1 May - 2 September. The coach from Inverness connects with the ferry at John O' Groats and you can travel on to Kirkwall (Orkney).
You usually get some time to look around John O'Groats before the ferry. They also offer coach tours of Orkney and have a useful page on travel connections to John O'Groats.

travelinescotland.com is the official public transport guide with online timetables and a journey planner.

Day coach tours
The Nor'West Tours minibus service operates from Inverness to John O'Groats with stops at the Carn Liath broch, Brora, Camster Cairns, Wick, Duncansby Stacks. Trip includes a short walk to see puffins on spectacular cliffs. Also opportunities to see other wildlife including deer and seals. Operates on certain days from March to October.
You can also take one of their day tours to Orkney from Inverness or book an overnight trip to Orkney.

Based in Thurso, Ross Tours have a minibus (7 passengers) for private hire for sightseeing tours. Tel: 01847 891181

Highland Journeys, run by Nicola Fraser of Beauly, has a luxury 6-seater vehicle to take small groups on personally guided tours. Telephone 07778 499 307. Day trips depart from Inverness at 9am and last approx. 9-10 hours. There are several on offer including the West Coast Journey which visits Ullapool - Poolewe - Gairloch - Loch Maree.

Car hire:
Various local companies in Wick and Thurso - click here for list

Taxi
Taxi between John O' Groats and Inverness - tel: 01862 842260 / 07734700319. Ideal for start or end of sponsored cycle rides, etc.

Rail:
The railway line runs from Inverness up through Golspie, Brora, Helmsdale and Wick to Thurso. Buses connect from Thurso station to John O'Groats.

Air:
Wick airport has direct flights to/from Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Shetland and Orkney. There is also an airport at Inverness.

For all local transport connections (rail, ferry, air, bus), visit travelinescotland.com

JourneyShareCaithness is a lift sharing scheme supported by the Caithness Partnership Transport Forum, Liftshare.com and HITRANS (the Highlands and Islands Regional Transport Partnership).

Outdoor Activities

The Caithness and Sutherland Walking Festival is in May. In addition to guided walks for all levels of ability, there will also be many other outdoor activities on offer, plus local entertainment. Call the information line on +44(0)871 873 2774 or download the programme from their web site.
The Cape Wrath Challenge also takes place in May.

The Cape Wrath Trail web site provides info on the trek from Fort William to Cape Wrath (almost 200 miles).
The Moray Firth Trail is an interesting network of footpaths and trails which includes walks near John o'Groats, Wick, Helmsdale, Brora, Golspie, Dornoch, Tain and many other places.

  • Caithness Seacoast - based at Wick harbour marina. Tours of the east Caithness coast onboard a twin engine RIB. Disabled access to the boat and toilets available. Open all year. See castles, harbours, lighthouses, wildlife, sea caves and stacks. Rides can be 30 minutes or longer. Tel: 01955 609200 / Mobile: 07747 404128.
  • Highland Wildrides - trail riding, pony trekking, lessons for children and adults. Situated just above Bonar Bridge, between Dornoch and Lairg. Contact Stacie MacDonald. Tel: 01863 766 771.
  • Highlands Unbridled (based near Brora in Sutherland) offers pony trekking (1 hour to 1 day), beach rides and coast-to-coast trail riding holidays. All ages and abilities. Friendly qualified staff. Accommodation can be arranged. Tel: 01408 622789.
  • Highland Hawking Holidays based at Brora offer falconry holidays and/or tuition. Alsorts of game available. Visit their web site for more details, also photos of birds of prey and local scenery.
  • The Assynt-based Highland School of Fly-Fishing offers salmon and trout fishing (holidays, excursions and/or tuition). Red deer stalking can also be arranged on the Caplich estate.
  • NorWest Sea Kayaking offers full day, half day, evening, and multi-day trips in the area of Lochinver, Ullapool and Achiltibuie - including the Summer Isles, Handa Island, Old Man of Stoer and Glencoul. No experience is necessary. Introductory courses available, and camping trips. Contact Julie-Ann Macleod. Tel: 01571 844281 / 07900 641860.
  • Based in Ullapool, North-West Frontiers organises hiking in the wilderness of Sutherland, plus the Mountains of Assynt as well as trips to some of the best mountains in the Ullapool area including An Teallach, Stac Pollaidh and Ben More Coigach.
    Other guided walking holidays by NWF include the Outer Hebrides, Skye, Kintail, Torridon and these are great value for money. All the walks are run by experienced leaders and there are levels for all abilities giving a range of coastal and mountain walking. B&B, hotel or hostel accommodation is included in the price or you can arrange your own.

Places to Visit

The places listed on this page take you on a tour up the east coast along the A9 main road from Dornoch (which is some 45 to 50 miles north of Inverness) to John O'Groats and then westwards along the very top of northern Scotland to Cape Wrath which is the most north-westerly point on the British mainland. From there, this tour continues down through Sutherland and Assynt towards Ullapool and Wester Ross. You can also cover this route in the opposite direction - I don't think it really matters which way you go! The views are spectacular especially the further north you are. You could easily spend a week here and still not want to go home. Don't forget you can also go over to Orkney which is well worth it if you have time.

It is also worth also heading inwards away from the coast by taking the road from Lairg, across the moors and forest, up through Altnaharra to Tongue (single-track road in many places). There's a hotel at Altnaharra and the Crask Inn is in between there and Lairg. The mountain scenery is spectacular - this is something of a remote wilderness.

Along this route, Lairg is the main centre of population with shops, accommodation, garage, railway station, etc. Pay a visit the Ferrycroft Countryside Centre and if you are interested in archaeology, follow the trail up Ord Hill to see burial mounds, chambered cairns and hut circles. Visit www.lairghighlands.org.uk for local info.
Held in mid-June, the Lairg Music Festival is open to local competitors. Lairg Gala Week usually starts on the second Saturday in July. The Lairg Crofters Show is held on the third Saturday in August. For Scottish tweeds, visit the Sutherland Sporting Company. If you want to make this area your base, rent yourselves one of the Cairnmuir Caravans.

From Lairg you can see the vast expanse of Loch Shin. Southwards, follow the road and river down to The Falls of Shin where the salmon leap between June and September. There's a Harrods gift shop and restaurant with toilets, forest trail, crazy golf course, children's adventure playground, car park. Internet access available.

River Shin
River Shin

DORNOCH
On the A9 north of Inverness, this old county town is where the last witch was burned in Scotland (in 1722).

Madonna made the town famous in December 2000 when she stayed at at nearby Skibo Castle for her wedding with Guy Ritchie. They christened their son Rocco in Dornoch Cathedral, which dates from the 13th century and is open daily during daylight hours.

The town is home to the Royal Dornoch Golf Club, the most northerly first-class course in the world I believe. Local facilities include shops, chemist, hairdresser, banks, filling station, tennis courts, bowling green, sandy beach.
Visit Historylinks at The Meadows for an exhibition of Dornoch past and present (open May to September, Monday - Saturday, 10am - 4pm).
A craft centre and art gallery is located in the old town jail.
The Dornoch Castle Hotel can be booked for accommodation and weddings.
Local accommodation includes Fairways at Dornoch

Annual events in town include the Dornoch Highland Gathering in early August. For detailed info about the town consult visitdornoch.com.

GOLSPIE
Several nice walks can be started here. The town has a swimming pool, golf course, sandy beach, railway station, banks. Detailed info about the town on golspie.org.uk

An excellent place to visit is the Orcadian Stone Company in Main Street (Tel: 01408 633483). It has a wonderful display of rocks, crystals and fossils of all shapes and sizes (some in their natural form, some made into jewellery). The exhibition and shop are open from Easter to October (Monday to Saturday), and also in the 3 weeks before Christmas. Small admission charge to the exhibition for adults. Children, university and school parties are free. The exhibition is not suitable for children under 8 years.

DUNROBIN CASTLE (a mile north of Golspie)
Seat of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland, this beautiful castle with a French influence sits looking out across the North Sea and is well worth a visit. With 189 rooms, it is the largest house in the Northern Highlands. Parts of it date back to the 1300s. There are many collections of furniture, pictures, objets d'art, uniforms, china and family memorabilia on display in the Drawing Room, Library, study, bedrooms, nurseries, etc. Visitors to the castle can also see a 19th century horsedrawn fire engine in the Sub Hall and look at the museum which is housed in the old summer house. The formal gardens were laid out in 1850 by Barry, the architect who built the Victorian extension to Dunrobin and also the Houses of Parliament in London.

Dunrobin Castle
Photo copyright Joanne Mackenzie-Winters

The castle is open every day from 1 April to 15 October 2009 from 10.30am (except Sundays in March, April, May, September & October when it opens at 12 noon). Admission charge. There is a gift shop and tea room. The gardens are open all year round and entry is free of charge when the castle is closed. Limited disabled access to the house. Tel: +44 (0)1408 633177.
For details of private tours, facilities for functions and opening hours, see the official web site: www.dunrobincastle.co.uk.

Highland Games are held at the castle usually in August each year and other events are hosted there from time to time. The Vintage Car Rally takes place in August.

BRORA
Sandy beach, golf course, railway station, chemist, filling stations, bank, and visitor centre at Clynelish Distillery (open Monday - Friday from Easter - October, rest of year by appointment only).
Pandora's Emporium is an usual shop on the edge of Brora. It is full of vintage, retro and classic clothing, shoes and accessories, as well as local pottery, photos, etc. Tel: 01408 622562.
The local river is famous for its salmon. Near Strathsteven south of Brora is a well preserved Iron Age broch called Carn Liath.
Nearby Highlands Unbridled offers horse trail riding. Tel: 01408 622789.

HELMSDALE
Once a busy herring port, now the site of the Timespan Heritage Centre (open daily Easter to October) which has life-size displays, an audio-visual presentation and nice garden with a cafe. From here the railway line turns inland and returns to the coast at Wick. Shops, bank and hostel.
The Bridge Hotel in Dunrobin Street is a traditional hotel with 19 bedrooms, and serves good food including seafood and game (tel : 01431 821100).
'The Emigrants' statue in Couper Park was commissioned by Clearances Centre Ltd to commemorate the Highland Clearances.
The Helmsdale Highland Games take place in August in Couper Park (tel: 01431 821666).
Visit Helmsdale.org for local info, accommodation photos, news, etc.

Nine miles west of Helmsdale is Kildonan Burn, the site of the Great Sutherland Gold Rush of 1869. Today you have more chance of finding fossils and gemstones on the shoreline than gold in the hills. But you can always try your luck. First go to Mr. Sanger's shop called Strath Ullie (crafts and fishing tackle) in Dunrobin Street, Helmsdale (tel: 01431 821343). You can hire his gold panning equipment and ask him where to look.

BERRIEDALE
Pretty village sitting in a valley. Puffins can be seen here in early summer. There's also the Kingspark Llama Farm which is open daily all year round (tel: 01593 751202).

DUNBEATH
Birthplace of Highland author Neil M. Gunn - memorial and nearby picnic area. Heritage centre in the former school where Gunn began his education. Open daily 10am - 5pm from April to October. Small admission charge. Tel/fax: 01593 731233. Visit the Dunbeath Heritage Centre and Trust web site for more info.
The local harbour was a busy place in the olden days when as many as 150 fishing boats went out searching for herring. Dunbeath Castle (privately owned and not open to the public) is about a mile south of the village.
Nearby attractions include the Laidhay croft museum, several brochs and walks. Highland Games in August (phone 01847 821763 for exact date).

LATHERON (3.5 miles north east of Dunbeath)

The Clan Gunn Heritage Centre and Museum is in the old 18th century village church. Open 11am-5pm Monday - Saturday, 1 June - 30 September. Also Sundays from 2pm-5pm but only in July and August. There are 77 septs associated with clan Gunn (e.g. Georgeson, Henderson, Jamieson, Johnson, Nelson, Manson, Robison, Robson, Sandison, Swanson, Williamson, Wilson) - so visit and see if your family name is one of them. Tel: 01593 741700.
Photo courtesy of Albavision

From here you can cut across country on the new section of the A9 to Thurso/Scrabster (see further down this page) for the Orkney ferry, or continue northwards up the coast to Lybster, Wick and John o'Groats.

LYBSTER
Harbour, golf course, Celtic cross. Bank.

Visit Waterlines at the harbour - the exhibition centre run by Lybster Heritage Trust. Heritage and wildlife displays, video to watch and a CCTV console with remote control through which you can watch birds on the cliffs. Coffee shop. Open daily May to September 11am - 5pm. Telephone 01593 721520.

Take the little road inland just north of the village and after 5 miles you will reach the Grey Cairns of Camster. You will have to crawl if you want to get inside these chambers which are 5000 years old.

North of the village on the main A9 road you can visit the Kyleburn Confectionery factory. Near here is the Hill O' Many Stanes which features rows of early Bronze Age stones (link to photo by Diego Meozzi).

Further up the A9 road at Ulbster is the Cairn of Get which is 24m long and 14m wide. Not far from here is the road to the Whaligoe Steps which lead down the cliff to a small harbour. These 365 steps are very steep and dangerous even in good weather, so take care. A local lady used to look after them because she was convinced that God, being a fisherman, would come here one day. The steps are not well signposted, so at the telephone box on the A9 (map reference ND320405) take the minor road to the left. Drive past the houses, park at the end of the road, take the path round the big house, then descend the steps and prepare to be impressed.

WICK
Old herring port where Robert Louis Stevenson spent his childhood.
Wick Heritage Museum is open Monday - Saturday from Easter to end October.
The town includes shops, filling station, railway station, airport, hospital, banks, golf club, Tourist Information Centre.
For a list of shops & restaurants in the main shopping streets of Wick, visit www.high.st/wick/
More on Wick.
Wick Pipe Band.
The Wick Music Shop can be found in the High Street (web site includes online shop and downloadable sample tracks).

Castle of Old Wick or Castle Oliphant: these 14th century ruins are 1.5 miles south of Wick.


Photo to buy from Highland Photographic

Castles Sinclair and Girnigoe (3 miles north of Wick) both built on the edge of the cliff are now in ruins. The Clan Sinclair Trust has all the info.

On the way to John o'Groats you can visit the Caithness Broch Centre in the old school at Auckengill (open April - September). Admission free. Telephone: 01955 631377 / 01955 607034.

Click for Wick Forecast

JOHN O'GROATS
Although situated at the end of the road heading northwards, it is not quite the most northerly point on the British mainland as many people believe. That honour goes to Dunnet Head, some 15 miles to the west, not that it stops all the tourist hype. There are several souvenir shops here, one of which boasts to be the "First and Last Shop in Scotland". For a fee, you can have your photo taken by the signposts which indicate that Land's End is 876 miles away and London a mere 690.

Tourist information centre. Toilets. Hotel. Museum (open Easter - October). visitjohnogroats.com has full details of local facilities.

You can walk to Duncansby Head and see stone pinnacles rising out of the sea. There's lots of birdlife in the cliffs and also a lighthouse.

You can go on a wildlife cruise every day from 20 June to 31 August in the afternoon for 90 minutes to see the local birds and seals. Organised by John O'Groats Ferries, Ferry Office, John O'Groats, Caithness KW1 4YR. Tel: 01955 611353 / Fax: 01955 611301. This costs £14 for adults and £7 for children (or you can buy a family ticket for £35). Trips over the Pentland Firth are also available to Orkney. Two tours around the main sights on Orkney are made each day. Take a look at the John O'Groats Ferries website for full details.

NorthCoast Marine Adventures operate from Easter until early October. The NorthCoast Explorer runs 1 hour wildlife cruises every 2 hours (approx.) from 9am onwards. Subject to demand. 12 passengers only. They also have a Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) if you want a really splashing adventure! Contact them at: Sunfield, Skarfskerry, by Thurso, Caithness KW14 8XD. Tel: 01847 851241 / Fax: 01847 851841. Web site.

CANISBAY
The Medieval church of St. Drostan contains a tombstone commemorating the Groot family which gave its name to John O' Groats. There is a youth hostel here.

GILL'S BAY
Departure point for the vehicle ferry service to Orkney which began in 2001. Pentland Ferries offer 3 or more sailings every day this summer. Booking advisable. Tel: 01856 831 226.

CASTLE OF MEY
Located between Thurso and John O'Groats, it looks out to sea across the Pentland Firth.
Built as a Z-plan castle between 1566 and 1572 by the fourth Earl of Caithness, it was bought from Captain Imbert-Terry by the Queen Mother in 1952 (after her husband died). The castle was then in a state of disrepair and renovation work was required.
In September 1996 she handed the castle, its 2000 acre estate and her prize-winning herd of Aberdeen Angus over to a charitable trust to make their future secure.
The gardens were one of her favourite places and it is said that she often used to head straight to them on arrival during her annual August and October visits.

For 2010, the Castle and Gardens will be open to visitors for the Easter weekend (2 - 5 April), and then daily from 1st May to 28th July inclusive and from 10th August to 17th October inclusive. (Closed from 29 July to 9 August inclusive and also 6, 7, 8 October 2010).
Opening times are from 10.30am until 4pm.
Visitor centre with tearoom, toilets and gift shop. Rated 5 stars by the tourist board.
The Animal Centre in the old granary includes various farm animals for children to see.
To double check times and dates, visit the official web site.

If you don't have a car, you can visit the castle on a day trip from Inverness thanks to Nor'West Tours.

Check out the Royal Gallery at the Castle Arms Hotel in Mey and see their collection of photos of the royal family.
Highland Games are held in the village at Queen's Park in August.

DUNNET HEAD
The most northerly point on the British mainland. Dunnet Head Lighthouse was built in 1831 by Robert Stevenson. Local information is available from the Dunnet Head Information Centre (open April - September). There is also a seal viewing point.

Mary Ann's Cottage, just by Dunnet, has been virtually untouched in the last 150 years. Worth a visit to step back in time to see how people lived in those days. Nowadays, Mrs. Mary-Ann Calder's former home is in the care of the Caithness Heritage Trust. Open afternoons Tuesday - Sunday, June - September. Tel: 01955 603385 to confirm.

CASTLETOWN
The Castletown Heritage Society web site has details of local history and the heritage centre.
For lunch, dinner or snacks, try The Highlander Restaurant at Castletown (Tel 01847 821018).

THURSO
This old Norse settlement became an important trading place and is still the most northerly town on the Scottish mainland.

Harald's Tower just outside the town is the 18th century burial place of the Sinclair family of Ulbster.

Leisure centre, golf course, laundrette, optician, banks, chemist, hospital, filling station, church, ruined castle, beach. Car and cycle hire.
Caithness Horizons can be found in Thurso Town Hall and the adjacent Carnegie Library and this comprises a tourist information centre, shop, museum, gallery and cafe.
For a list of shops & restaurants in the main shopping streets of Thurso, visit www.high.st/thurso/
Thurso Music Shop (in the Arcade in the High Street).
Thurso Pipe Band are the most northerly band in mainland Britain.
Great waves for surfing can be experienced at Thurso reef.

The Caithness County Show takes place in July at Scrabster Farm, Thurso (tel: 01847 851654).

SCRABSTER (about a mile north of Thurso)
This fishing port is the vehicle ferry terminal for Orkney. You can walk along the cliffs of Holburn Head. The Caithness Agricultural Show takes place here in July I believe.
There are several places to eat and drink including the Captain's Galley which is a highly recommended, award-winning seafood restaurant (tel 01847 894999).
The local Scrabster web site includes a webcam, live weather station, ferry updates, news, photos, etc.
Highland Sea Charters - fishing day trips and sea angling packages with B&B onboard are available from Scrabster on the MFV Honestas. Phone: 07796 214154
Wild Sea Charters - day and half day sailing charters to see wildlife (whales, dolphins, seals, birds, etc.) from Scrabster onboard a fully renovated classic fishing trawler. Longer voyages with accommodation also available. Phone: 07796 214154.

DOUNREAY NUCLEAR POWER STATION
Now being decommissioned. There is a visitor centre which you can visit for free daily 10am-4pm from May to September. Telephone: 01847 802 233 to check exact dates and times for this year.

BETTYHILL
Wonderful beaches. When the crofters were forced off the land in the nearby glen and told to live by the sea, they founded what is now the village of Bettyhill. The Strathnaver Museum is housed in the old parish church and tells the story of the Highland Clearances, local history and clan Mackay (open April - October). Toilets and coffee shop.
The
Mackay Country web site has lots of useful information about all the villages and places to visit around here.

TONGUE
Filling station, bank, youth hostel, hotel. Lovely views from the causeway out to sea and the so-called Rabbit Islands.

photo
Approaching Tongue from the south, you can see the ruins of Castle Varrich or Caisteal Bharraich. Sitting on a promontory, this is an old two-storey tower-house owned by the Bishops of Caithness.

photo
Looking inland from Tongue you have spectacular views of Ben Loyal and the surrounding mountains.

photo
Heading west from Tongue you take the long trip around Loch Eriboll, the deepest sea loch in the country, nicknamed Loch 'Orrible by Navy personnel during World War 2.

DURNESS

Durness beach photo
There are several spectacular sandy beaches all around here.

Outside the Durness Tourist Information Office you will see an arrangement of large local rocks. These are huge specimens showing the variety which can be found in the local area. Inside the building have info on the local wildlife and some of the guided walks to Faraid Head.
The village also has a youth hostel, campsite, filling station, grocery, gift shop, bookshop, post office, etc. The Durness Highland Gathering take place in July.

The village hall garden is the site of the John Lennon Memorial (the ex-Beatle spent many childhood holidays here).

Nearby is Balnakeil which is the site of a former Ministry of Defence Early Warning Station, now used as a craft village which includes the Loch Croispol Bookshop & Restaurant (open daily from Easter to the end of September, and Monday - Friday the rest of the year).
Also check out the Cocoa Mountain coffee shop which sells hand-made chocolates (open daily in summer, and Friday, Saturday, Sunday in winter).
Continue to the end of the road and you will come to the ruins of Balnakeil Church which contains the carved tomb of local murderer/robber Donald Macleod who paid for his tomb to be inside the church to protect his remains from his enemies. You will also find the tomb of Rob Donn MacKay, one of the great 18th century Gaelic poets. The church is thought to have been founded by Saint Maelrubha in the 8th century. Opposite the church is Balnakeil House (click for article by Am Bratach).

photo

Around the corner you will see the golf course which is the most northerly one on the British mainland. Park your car by the church and take a walk from here along the lovely beach. You can continue through the dunes and along the headland to see puffins on the cliffs during the summer. Head towards the cairn on top of the small hill before you reach the MOD establishment and you will find that the views looking back inland are spectacular. On a clear day you can see right along the northern coastline of Scotland, almost right across the country to the east coast.

Visit the Durness community web site for more information about all the things to do and see around this beautiful part of the world.
There's a heritage walking trail to the old township of Ceannabeinne which was cleared in 1840s but the ruins remain.

Smoo Cave is located 1 mile east of Durness. There are steps leading down the cliffs and then you can walk across the pebbles to the entrance of the cave which is often wet and muddy inside. Not recommended for anyone with mobility problems. Boat trips can be made into the limestone cave which is 200 feet long, 50 feet high and over 100 feet wide. These trips take just 15 minutes in an inflatable dingy - hard hats are provided. No need to book - just pay the man in the boat. For more details contact the local tourist office: 01971 511259.

cave photo
View from the entrance to the cave
cave photo

CAPE WRATH
The most north-westerly point on the British mainland. To reach it you need to take the passenger ferry at Keodale (near Durness) run by Mr. Morrison (tel: 01971 511376). Crossing time: 10 minutes. It only operates from May to September. Then you go on the minibus which takes 40 minutes to drive 11 miles (telephone Mrs Mackay on 01971 511287 or 01971 511343 or mobile: 07751789048). Bicycles can be carried on the ferry if you prefer not to take the bus. Please contact the respective owners to arrange times with them as the services are run on demand. They can be subject to delays when the military range is in use. Minimum number of passengers for the ferry is 4. If you are energetic and want to camp in the wilderness, you can trek into and/or out of the Cape Wrath area, but you will certainly need hillwalking experience and proper equipment as this is rough and remote terrain. Also make sure that you check with the local tourist office that there is no military activity planned on the range.
To the east of the Cape Wrath lighthouse built in 1827 by Robert Stevenson is the pretty bay of Kearvaig and the highest sea cliffs in mainland Britain.
John & Kay Ure opened the Ozone Cafe in the lighthouse in June 2009 (tel: 01971 511314).

Keodale photo
Looking back at Keodale where the ferry leaves

KINLOCHBERVIE
Driving south from Durness and Keodale, you will pass the towering mountains of Cranstackie and Foinaven. At Rhiconich you can detour down a small road to Kinlochbervie, a surprising busy fishing port and fish market. From there, continue along the scenic road to the beach at Oldshoremore. Shortly after that the road ends and a track begins to Sandwood Bay - very remote and scenic, only for fit walkers (10 mile return trip).

SCOURIE
Once you are back on the main road (A838) heading south from Rhiconich, you will reach Scourie with its craft shops, general store, filling station, post office, public toilets, caravan park, etc. Also look out for the herd of Highland Cattle on your way into the village. You may also spot a palm tree or two! Scourie Lodge Gardens are open from early March to the end of October.
Visit the Scourie community site: www.scourie.co.uk

There are several boat trip operators around here. From Scourie harbour you can take a round trip to Handa Island (departures usually every 2 hours during the tourist season). This is a bird sanctuary owned by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. It has spectacular cliffs and you will see puffins at certain times of the year. To land on the island, you will need to take the ferry from Tarbet (6 miles north of Scourie). This operates Monday to Saturday from April to mid-September. The first ferry goes at 9.30am and continues on demand until 2pm. Return ferries run until 4.30pm. Return ferry fare is 7.50 pounds for adults, 4 pounds for children. On your arrival, a warden will show you the 6 km path to take around the island. Allow around 3 hours to explore it all. Another boat will take you cruising on Loch Laxford from nearby Fanagmore.

KYLESKU
Continuing south on the A838, you will see the many islands dotted in Eddrachillis Bay and then pass through the Duartmore Forest. Towered over by the mountains, the new bridge at Kylesku replaces an old ferry at this point. Boat trips on the 'Statesman' (tel: 01971 502345) usually leave at 11am and 2pm during the summer (not Saturdays) to take you up Loch Glencoul to see Eas a'Chual Aluinn, the highest waterfall in Britain (nearly 200 metres). Alternatively you can hike to see it - but at 2 hours' walk over rough terrain to get there, this is really only for the experienced hiker. Even if you have missed the boat, it is still worth following the signs from the main road to go down to the pier where you'll see the Kylesku Hotel and public toilets. You can get a nice view up Loch Glendhu.

The Kylesku Hotel offers good food (restaurant and bar meals) and accommodation. Recommended in the Michelin Guide to Eating out in Pubs. Open from March to mid October. Tel: 01971 502 231.

Half a mile south of Kylesku you will find the Maryck Memories of Childhood Museum and tea room at Unapool (tel: 01971 502009 or 01971 502341). Open daily from Easter to October.

Just after Unapool, the road branches in two. You can either continue down the main road towards Ardvreck Castle and Elphin (see below) or you can detour via Lochinver, then drive past Quinag to join up with the main road by Ardvreck Castle - or then again you could continue along the coastal road heading down via Inverkirkaig to explore Achiltibuie and return via Stac Pollaidh to the main road. If you want to do justice to this area, I would advise at least 2 days - or more if you intend climbing any of the many glorious mountains!

LOCHINVER
Busy fishing port with Spar supermarket, newsagents, bank, filling station, post office, public toilets, craft shops. Check out the Lochinver Larder restaurant and deli on the main street - homemade pies, sandwiches and takeaway meals as well as a sit down menu.

Also in Main Street is The Caberfeidh Bar and Restaurant which offers good food and drink, and is popular with locals and visitors alike. Open daily (tel: 01571 844 321).

The Tourist Information Centre is very nice and houses the Assynt Visitor Centre which has a free exhibition about the local area, complete with upstairs reading room, nature info and computer with a CD-ROM tour.
Lochinver is also home to the Highland Stoneware factory shop which is on the north side of the loch from where you can get the classic shot of Suilven the 'sugarloaf' mountain towering over the village. The shop is open weekdays 9am-6pm (all year) and 9am-5pm on Saturdays from Easter to October. They produce hand-painted pottery (gifts and table/cookware). Tel: 01571 844376.
The Assynt Highland Games usually take place at Culag Park, Lochinver on the second Saturday in August (tel: 01571 844647).
The Sutherland Way Trail is a long distance walk from Lochinver to Tongue.

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Based in Lochinver, Martin Morrison of Assynt Photographics has lots of photos of Assynt to buy.

If you are looking for accommodation here, then Veyatie is a 4 Star B&B just outside Lochinver at the end of the Baddidarrach road. It has superb views of the bay and Suilven. The lady also works as an artist for Highland Stoneware.
At nearby Inverkirkaig, Linga Holiday Chalet offers self catering accommodation for 4 people.

ASSYNT COASTAL ROAD
As mentioned earlier, you can detour along the coastal roads both north and south of Lochinver. Along the road heading north out of Lochinver, there are many interesting stops including the detour to the beach at Achmelvich - this offshoot of the road is a little hair-raising (best if there is no oncoming traffic!) but well worth it as you can see from the picture below. There is a ranger hut, open during the summer, plus public toilets, and a caravan/camping site all set back from the beach so as not to be intrusive.

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Shortly after rejoining the B686 and not far from Pollan, you will come to a lovely viewpoint (assuming it is a clear day!). Displayed before your very eyes you will see across the horizon mountains from Conival and Canisp, to Suilven, Cul Mor and Cul Beag. Maybe more if you look closely! Click to see my photo.

Further north there are more beaches around Clachtoll which boasts an usual Split Rock formation in the sea and an Iron Age broch towards Stoer. You can drive to the Stoer lighthouse which has views right across to the Hebrides. From here there is a walk across open moorland and cliff tops to the Old Man of Stoer, another rock stack formation in the sea.

More bays at Culkein and Clachnessie, followed by another interesting viewpoint at Drumbeg (also more public toilets for those of you with weak bladders). From here you can look northwards to Handa Island and also Ben Strome. At the east end of the village, Drumbeg Designs is a gift shop selling crafts and gifts with a local or Celtic theme made and sold exclusively from here. Refreshments and home-baking are served.
This is also the start of the Peat Road walk (a 4 - 5 mile circular walk around Loch Drumbeg).

The Assynt Foundation was established following the community buy-out of the Glencanisp and Drunrunie Estates in 2005.

ARDVRECK CASTLE
Back on the main A897 road between Unapool and Elphin, the lonely ruins of Ardvreck Castle sit on Loch Assynt. Well worth a stop if you would like to walk over and explore (but please do not clamber over the building as it is a listed ancient monument). Details and photos are available on my Ardvreck Castle page. Historical connections with the Mackenzies and the Macleods. Probably built around 1590/1. The ruins of 17th century Calda House (owned by the Mackenzies) stand by the roadside. Visit Historic Assynt for more details about both places.

INCHNADAMPH
On the main road heading down to Ullapool, you will pass through the area known as Inchnadamph - highly significant for geologists and home to the famous 'Bone Caves' where bones of polar bears were discovered dating from the last Ice Age.
Be sure to visit Scottish Natural Heritage's Knockan Crag interpretative centre with toilets and picnic area. It tells you all about the area.
Due to its outstanding geology and landscape, NW Sutherland together with parts of Wester Ross have been designated by Unesco as Scotland's first Geopark.
More information is given by the Assynt Geology web site.

ELPHIN
Just south of Ledmore Junction where the road branches towards Lairg, you reach Elphin, home to the Highland Rare Breeds Farm, not to be confused with the other farm attraction right next to it! Tea room in the centre of the village. Also check out the Swallow Studio.

FALLS OF KIRKAIG
The road heading south out of Lochinver towards Achiltibuie is certainly worth the detour if you have the time and are not put off by driving on narrow, twisting lanes. This birch-lined road passing by gushing rivers is quite an experience and you will also have a couple of sea views (if you dare take your eyes off the road ahead). Signs at either end of this road warn that it is unsuitable for caravans and coaches, so that will give you some idea of what it is like!

Along this road and not far from Lochinver is Inverkirkaig which is home to Achins book shop (probably the most remote one in the country!). It includes a coffee shop (tel 01571 844262).
The path to the waterfall leads from the side of their drive. Be warned - it isn't a gentle stroll - it may take you around 2 hours to get there. This is also the path which later leads up Suilven. Click here for walk directions.

ACHNAHAIRD
You can reach Achnahaird either by continuing south from Inverkirkaig along the road I describe above, or you can branch off the main north-south road (now the A835) between Elphin and Ullapool and take the unclassified road past Stac Pollaidh (click for my photos) which is another popular hike.

Once at Achnahaird, follow the signs to the beach and park at the end of the road. Take the path heading right and you can easily walk to the sands. There's also a caravan and camping site here. On the approach road to Achnahaird from the east you will have grand views of the mountains to the north (weather permitting!). There is also a viewpoint on the road from Achnahaird to Reiff - you will see the marker on the hilly headland. Continue along the road heading down to Achiltibuie and the Summer Isles will come into view, and, depending on visibility Wester Ross and possibly Skye, as well as Harris and Lewis.

ACHILTIBUIE
Famous for the Hydroponicum (the garden of the future) which offers guided tours (usually beginning on the hour and costing around 4 pounds per person, 10am-5pm). The growing houses were extended in 2000. The centre also has the Lily Pond Cafe which serves nice food and is open some evenings. The centre is open daily from 10am-6pm from mid April to end September. Achiltibuie also has a fish/meat/game smokehouse, hotel, youth hostel, public toilets, grocery store. Visit Achiltibuie.com for more local info, accommodation, etc.

Boat cruises giving you an hour ashore on the Summer Isles run Monday to Saturday during the tourist season. Morning cruise on the Hectoria leaves at 10.30am from Badentarbert Pier (Achiltibuie) and returns at 2pm. Afternoon cruise leaves at 2.15pm, returns at 5.45pm (to check times and dates: telephone Ian Macleod at the post office on 01854 622200 or 07729 691 690). Evening fishing trips also available.
Visit the Summer Isles web site for more info about Tanera Mòr and its famous private post office (with cafe). The island offers facilities for art courses and watersports (sailing school and power boating). There are numerous self catering properties.

You can leave Achiltibuie on the road alongside Loch Vatachan to get back to Achnahaird and then continue on your merry way. Driving south down the main road you will shortly reach Ullapool and Wester Ross.

Hotel Accommodation

Royal Marine Hotel photo

Royal Marine Hotel
Golf Road
Brora
Sutherland KW9 6QS

Self catering apartments and cottages also available.

Royal Marine Hotel
Scottish Tourist Board 4 Star Hotel. AA 4 Stars.
Edwardian country house built by Sir Robert Lorimer.
Antique furniture and log fires.
Overlooking the River Brora. 100 metres from golf course.
Ideal for golf, fishing, mountain biking, walking.
Visit Dunrobin Castle & Clynelish Distillery.
1 hour from Inverness (daily train service).

Commended in the Scottish Country House category
of the 2007 HotelReviewScotland awards.
Scottish Golf Break Hotel of the Year 2006.
Recommended by the Michelin Red Guide.
Member of Scotland's Hotels of Distinction.
Choice of 3 restaurants. AA Red Rosette.
Facilities for conferences and weddings.
Wi-Fi available.

Leisure Club: heated indoor swimming pool,
spa, sauna, steam room, solarium & gym.
Beauty treatments, massage and complementary therapies.
Non residents welcome. Snooker room.

22 ensuite bedrooms with TV, toiletries, tea/coffee, mineral water.
B&B prices from £45 per person.

Click here for online booking

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Dornoch Castle  photo

Dornoch Castle Hotel
Castle Street
Dornoch IV25 3SD

Dornoch Castle Hotel
Historic 15th century castle.
Situated in the centre of Dornoch
opposite the Cathedral where Madonna was married.
Close to the Royal Dornoch golf course.
1 hour's drive north of Inverness.

Garden Restaurant with AA Red Rosette for excellent food.

Choice of 24 ensuite bedrooms
including some with four-poster bed.
B&B prices from £45 per person.

Click here for online booking

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Kincraig Castle Hotel photo

Kincraig Castle Hotel
Ross-shire
IV18 0LF

Kincraig Castle Hotel

Scottish Tourist Board 4 Star Country House Hotel
with grounds and extensive views towards the Cromarty Firth.
Once the family seat of the Mackenzie clan.
Built in the early 1800s
AA 4 Stars & 1 red rosette.
Elegant restaurant, lounge and bar.
Choice of dining in the bar or restaurant.
Conveniently situated on the main A9 road near Invergordon.
25 miles north of Inverness. 20 miles south of Dornoch.
Recommended by Condé Nast Johansens & Michelin guide.
Member of Scotland's Hotels of Distinction

Choice of 15 indivually styled ensuite bedrooms.
All with satellite TV, controllable heating, hairdryer,
tea & coffee, toiletries. Free WiFi.
24 hour room service
B&B prices from £35 per person (2 sharing).

Click here for online booking

Bed and Breakfasts

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Olly and Brian Rawsthorne
Greenacre
Stittenham
Ardross
Ross-shire IV17 0YD
Tel: 01349 882207
Email: Olly@Greenacre2002.com

Greenacre
Between Inverness and Tain

Friendly B&B set in an acre of beautiful, landscaped gardens.
4 miles from 'Britain in Bloom' winning town of Alness.

Tain 12 miles. Dingwall 13 miles. Dornoch 19 miles.
Inverness 23 miles. Loch Ness 30 miles.

2 spacious bedrooms with double and single beds,
hospitality tray, sweetie box, soft white towels, TV, hairdryer.
B&B prices £22 per person (single, twin or double).
Family room from £58 per night.
Big breakfasts. Picnic lunches from £5.
Home cooked evening meal from £10 per person.

Pet care package from £5 per day
(feeding, exercising, housing and care)

Crafts available including paintings, wall hangings, photos.

Click here for online brochure

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Veyatie B&B view photo

Dawn & Mel Chapman
Veyatie
66 Baddidarrach
Lochinver
Sutherland IV27 4LP
Tel/Fax: +44 (0)1571 844424
Email: veyatie-lochinver@tiscali.co.uk

Veyatie

Scottish Tourist Board 4 Star B&B.
Member of Scotland's Best B&Bs.
Welcome Host and Scotland's Best Service certificates.
Complimentary afternoon refreshments served in the conservatory.
Guest lounge with wide screen TV, VCR and hi-fi.
Free wireless ADSL connection.

Located just outside the village of Lochinver.
35 miles north of Ullapool, 50 miles south of Cape Wrath.

Superb views from the house and bedrooms
overlooking Lochinver Bay and Suilven mountain.
Nearby sandy beaches. Ardvreck Castle 11 miles.
Ideal for touring Assynt, walking, fishing, etc.

2 ensuite bedrooms: 1 double and 1 twin.
Each with hairdryer, Highland Stoneware crockery,
clock radio, fan, central heating, tea/coffee.

B&B prices from £38 per person per night
Single occupancy of double/twin from £45.
Open January - November.
No smoking. No pets.

Click here for online brochure

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SCOTLAND'S BEST B&Bs

Scotland's Best B&Bs is an organisation
with 96 members throughout Scotland.
All graded 4 or 5 Stars by the Scottish Tourist Board (Visit Scotland).
Members include B&Bs in Brora, Wick, Tongue, Lochinver.

To see members of Scotland's Best B&Bs
please click here to visit their web site

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Self Catering Accommodation

view photo

223 Altandhu
Achiltibuie
Wester Ross IV26 2YR

Contact Mark Scott
Tel: 07947754454 / 01250 872 481
Email: bookings@selfcatering-scotland.net

Windyhill

Architect-designed cottage in its own hillside grounds
only 150 metres from the sea.
Magnificent views of the sea and Summer Isles.
Ideal for walking, sandy beaches, boat trips, fishing, etc.
4 miles from Achiltibuie.
26 miles north of Ullapool. 18 miles south of Lochinver.

3 bedrooms (2 double & 1 twin). Sleeps 6.
2 bathrooms (1 with whirlpool bath).
Open-plan living/dining-room with antique pine floor.
Kitchen area and utility room.
Facilities include Freeview TV, VCR, DVD, CD, microwave,
washing machine, tumble dryer, dishwasher, fridge/freezer.

Rental prices from £349 per week
includes bedlinen and towels.
Short breaks sometimes available.
1 dog welcome (extra charge).
Web site includes video, virtual tour & availability calendar.
Click here for online brochure

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Links Apartments photo

Links View Apartments
Golf Road
Brora
Sutherland KW9 6QS
Tel: +44 (0)1408 621252
Fax: +44(0)1408 621181
Email: info@royalmarinebrora.com

Also available: 2 cottages with 3 bedrooms
situated 2 miles outside Brora.

Links View Apartments

Luxury self catering apartments next to Brora golf course
with panoramic views across the sea. Opened 2005.

Access to the facilities at the adjacent hotel:
heated indoor swimming pool, spa, sauna, steam room,
solarium, gym, snooker room. 3 restaurants.

Visit Dunrobin Castle & Clynelish Distillery.
1 hour from Inverness. Daily train service.
Royal Dornoch 16 miles.
Fishing and golf can be arranged.

Each luxury apartment comprises:
2 en-suite double bedrooms, fully-fitted kitchen,
large lounge/dining room with patio windows.
Plasma TV, DVD and I-Pod docking station.
Top quality furnishings.

Prices from £80 - £200 per day (minimum 2 nights)
or £395 - £890 per week.

Click here for online brochure

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Inverkirkaig

Ronald & Sheina MacKenzie
'Valhalla'
Inverkirkaig
Lochinver
Sutherland IV27 4LR
Tel: 01292 312291
Email: ronaldmackenzie@btinternet.com

Linga Holiday Chalet

Timber-built chalet in a secluded position overlooking Inverkirkaig Bay.
3 miles south of Lochinver. 38 miles north of Ullapool.
Sandy beaches nearby. Unspoilt coastal and mountain scenery.
Ideal base for exploring Assynt, NW Sutherland and Wester Ross.

Accommodation for 4 people:
2 bedrooms (1 double and 1 twin).
Bathroom with shower over bath.
Large open-plan living area which looks down on the bay and beach, just yards away.
Kitchen with electric cooker, microwave oven, fridge freezer and washing machine.
Digital TV. Double glazing throughout.
Rental prices from £260 per week
including electricy, bed linen and towels.
Strictly No Smoking. No pets.

Click here for online brochure

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Located at Embo, by Dornoch

Grannie's Heilan' Hame

4 star holiday park on a beautiful beach with views of Ben Bhraggie and the Dornoch Firth.
Only a short drive from Dornoch. 40 miles north of Inverness.
Dunrobin Castle 14 miles. Tain 13 miles. Brora 18 miles.
Also nearby: distilleries, boat trips, golf, fishing.

On site facilities include:
Heated indoor pool, sauna, spa bath, solarium.
Children's clubs, adventure playground, basketball court,
games room with pool table, video games & amusements,
mini 10-pin bowling, crazy golf, tennis, nature trail.
Mini supermarket. Launderette. Wi-Fi access in designated areas.
Restaurant, cafe, takeaway and traditional village pub.
Family entertainment is on offer at night.

Accommodation is in a choice of caravans
with 2 or 3 bedrooms, shower, kitchen, lounge, TV.
Additional sleeping for 2 in the lounge area.
Prices from £199 per week.
Bed linen and duvets provided. Heating throughout included
Short breaks available.
Pets welcome.

Click here for online brochure

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Glen Lodges
Inchcape
Rogart
Sutherland IV28 3UD

Glen Lodges

High quality, beautifully furnished lodges in a secluded location
on a wooded hillside with stunning views of the glen and mountains.
Extensively refurbished in 2005.
Dornoch 15 miles. Dunrobin Castle 13 miles. Falls of Shin 12 miles.
60 miles north of Inverness.

Choice of 2 lodges, each sleeping 4:
1 double bedroom, 1 twin bedroom, 1 bathroom.
Kitchen with microwave, dishwasher, washing machine/dryer
Lounge with satellite TV, VCR, DVD, CD player.
Pets welcome. No smoking.
Online virtual tour.

Rental prices from £290 per week.
Heating and electricity included.
Short breaks available.

Click here for online brochure

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Booking Hotline: 0845 268 1383

Cottages in Caithness & Sutherland

Wide choice of self catering properties ranging from 2 to 5 bedrooms.

Locations include Brora, Golspie, Lairg, Kinlochbervie,
Strathnaver, Tain, Thurso, Wick, etc.

Web site with virtual tours and instant online booking.
Short breaks and late deals often available.
Click here for online brochure

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Contact: Irene Drummond
Helmsdale Hostel
Stafford Street
Helmsdale
Sutherland KW8 6JR
Tel: 01431 821636
Mobile 07971 516287

Helmsdale Hostel

Scottish Tourist Board 4 Star Hostel.
Completely refurbished in 2006.
Former SYHA hostel under new ownership.

Accommodation:
2 dorms each with 8 single beds (£15 per person per night).
Family bedroom with a double bed & bunks
(£60 per night per room).
Private room for up to 4 adults (£40 per night per room).
All with ensuite showers.

Facilities:
Fully equipped kitchen.
Tea, coffee, sugar and milk.
Large dining area. Comfortable lounge area.
Internet access.
Bed linen provided. Towel hire available.
Cycle shed. Garden / barbecue area.
Click here for online brochure

Miscellaneous accommodation listings:

Hotels:

  • The Kylesku Hotel (3 stars) is on the shores of Loch Glendhu and Glencoul on the west coast. 8 bedrooms (double, twin, family). Restaurant and bar meals (recommended in the AA Pub Guide and the Michelin Guide to Eating out in Pubs). Open from March to mid October. Tel: 01971 502 231.
  • Mackays Rooms & Restaurant at Durness provides luxury accommodation and traditional Highland cuisine. 6 en-suite bedrooms (single, double, twin, family). Scottish Tourist Board 4 Star Small Hotel. Recommended by HotelReviewScotland and 'Good Food of Scotland 2005'. Open from March to October. Tel: 01971511202.
  • The Bridge Hotel is a traditional hotel with 19 bedrooms in Helmsdale.
  • The Norseman Hotel in Wick is situated close to the town centre overlooking the river. 48 ensuite rooms.
  • The Royal Hotel in Thurso is a former Coaching Inn, now a 3 star hotel with 103 bedrooms.
  • The Sutherland Inn in Brora offers B&B at reasonable rates.

B&Bs / Guest Houses:

  • Auld Post Office Bed & Breakfast at Spittal-by-Mybster, near Halkirk in Caithness, has 2 luxury double bedrooms with French doors leading to a private patio. Contact Lynne Read. Tel: 01847 841391.
  • Bank Guest House in Wick town centre with ensuite bedrooms. 3 stars. Tel: 01955 604001.
  • B&B in Brora with 2 double rooms. Friendly, comfortable stone built house, a few minutes walk from the railway station. Contact Lesley Graham & Andrew Bridges. Tel: 01408 622562.
  • Canisp House is a 3 star B&B with 1 ensuite double bedroom. Situated 3 miles from Lybster and 15 miles from Wick. Contact Caroline Dollemore-Hunt. Tel: 01593 721758.
  • Chenoweth Farm Guest House offers high quality B&B at 66 Strathkanaird on a traditional working croft 7 miles north of Ullapool. Contact Gwen & Mark Thompson.
  • Corrigall Bed & Breakfast overlooks Loch Watten between Wick (8 miles) and Thurso (12 miles). 2 bedrooms with kingsize beds (family / double). Wi-Fi access. Contact Ann Flett. Tel: 01955 621955.
  • Eadar Da' Sloc B&B is a unique open-plan, modern energy-efficient home just outside Lochinver. Facilities include a outdoor wood-fired sauna and free wi-fi. Accommodation for 2 - 4 people (1 family room, 2 single beds and a pair of bunk beds). Open April - September. Contact Mike Rochester. Tel: 01571 844019.
  • Fourpenny B&B is situated near Loch Fleet Nature Reserve, just outside Dornoch. Self catering also available. Contact Julie Board - tel: 01862 810159.
  • Greenland House in Castletown (5 miles from Thurso and 18 miles from John o'Groats) is a 3 star guest house.
  • The Hawthorns B&B is a short walk from the Castle of Mey. 3 ensuite bedrooms (double/triple). Families welcome. Evening meals by arrangement. Contact Teresa Wymer. Tel: 01847 851710.
  • Linkside Bed and Breakfast is in the village of Reay (11 miles west of Thurso). B&B in 2 rooms (double & twin). Evening meals by arrangement. Views over Reay Golf Course and the sea. Contact Ian & Ros Ellis. Tel: 01847 811238.
  • Pentland Lodge House is a 4 star guest house with 9 bedrooms in Thurso. Accommodation is also available in the self catering annexe (sleeps 4). Tel: 01847 895103.
  • Ruddyglow Park Country House offers 5 star B&B accommodation by Loch Assynt. Approx. 6 miles from Lochinver and 30 miles from Ullapool. Member of Scotland's Best B&Bs. Sporting packages can be arranged (walking, fishing, stalking). Luxury log cabin for 2 also available. Evening meals - advance booking required. Credit cards accepted. Online booking. Contact Patricia Filmer-Sankey. Tel: 01571 822216
  • Suilnamara (Gaelic for 'Sea View') is a family run B&B providing friendly accommodation with 1 twin room and 1 family room (both en-suite). Stunning views over Lochinver harbour. Contact: Rhona Mackenzie, Suilnamara, Lochinver, Sutherland IV27 4LJ. Tel: 01571 844535.
  • Valleyview House at Murkle, 2 miles from Thurso, is 5 minutes from the Orkney ferry at Scrabster. 3 bedrooms (2 double, 1 twin). Views across the bay to Dunnet Head. Contact Antoinette and Stephen Robertson-Carswell. Tel: 01847 895546.
  • Woodland Guest House at Rosehall, by Lairg is a vegetarian B&B with 1 double and 2 twin/double rooms. Optional vegan evening meals. Bike hire, guided walks and wildlife weekends. Massage and yoga breaks also available. Tel: 01549 441715.

Self catering:

  • Achinduich House is situated on its own estate with a private loch for brown trout fishing. 2 miles from Lairg. Sleeps 8 in 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, dining kitchen and 2 sitting rooms.
  • Brown Cottage near the shores of Loch Shin at Lairg, sleeps 3.
  • Caisteal Liath offers a variety of self catering accommodation overlooking Lochinver Bay and the mountains. Choice of luxury 1-bedroom chalet with whirlpool bath or 4 star quality 2-bedroom chalet. All facilities including dishwasher, washing machine, TV, VCR, etc. Or you can rent Caisteal Liath House which has 2 bedrooms (1 double, 1 twin), plus all facilities. Contact Sue & John Macleod, Caisteal Liath, Baddidarrach, Lochinver, Sutherland IV27 4LP. Tel/Fax: +44 (0) 1571 844457. Mobile: 07855 555109. B&B also available.
  • Caravan at Embo with 2 bedrooms & sofa bed, bathroom, open plan kitchen, dining & living area.
  • Cathair Dhubh: 4-star luxury cottages overlooking Achmelvich Bay just north of Lochinver. Choice of 5 fully equipped cottages (sleeping 4 - 6) on an 80-acre estate. Tel: 01571 855 277.
  • Craiglea at Latheronwheel is a hideaway offering privacy and seclusion in 4 star self catering accommodation for up to 15-20 guests. The accommodation options can be let separately or as a whole: 2 guest houses (each sleeping 5 - 8), a cottage (sleeping 4 - 6) and an indoor leisure area with heated swimming pool. Situated on the coast, 30 miles south of John O’Groats.
  • Croit-Na-Mara (2 bedrooms) is just 150 yards from the sea and about 3 miles from Tongue on the northern coastline.
  • Elig-a-Bhrodan is a 3 bedroom cottage to rent 2 miles from Lochinver.
  • The Glenrossal Estate rents out 2 holiday cottages (sleeping 4 - 6). Salmon fishing also available. Situated near Rosehall (between Bonar Bridge and Lairg).
  • The Hoose has 3 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen and living room. Situated on the harbour at Helmsdale.
  • Highland Glen Lodges offer 4 star self catering in 5 lodges (each sleeping 4 + baby). Set on a wooded hillside near Rogart (between Lairg and Dornoch).
  • Keiss Harbour House is a contemporary-styled house on the edge of the Caithness village of Keiss. Sleeps up to 12 in 5 bedrooms. 12 miles south of John O'Groats. 10 minutes drive from Wick.
  • Ocean View is a self catering cottage at Brough, Britain's most northerly mainland village within walking distance of Dunnet Head. 2 bedrooms (1 double and 1 twin), living room, dining kitchen, bath/shower room.
  • Strathallan Holiday Cottage offers 4 star accommodation in Dunbeath with 4 bedrooms (2 double, 1 twin and 1 bunk room).
  • Strathcraig is a crofter's cottage 2 miles from Lochinver. 3 bedrooms (1 double, 1 twin & 1 single).
  • Accommodation and fishing holidays are available in Strath Halladale. The Halladale is a well known salmon river with a season running from 12 January - 30 September. Wild brown trout can be fished in the lochs. Stalking and shooting can also be arranged in addition to other outdoor activities.

Bunkhouse / Hostel Accommodation

  • Carbisdale Castle near Bonar Bridge - 4 star hostel, part of SYHA. Open mid March - October. 140 beds. Breakfast, packed lunch and evening meals available. Tel: 01549 421 232.
  • There's a simple SYHA youth hostel at Achinver, Achiltibuie (tel: 01854 622254) with 20 beds which is open mid May - end August. Approach via a rough track. Map Ref: O.S.15 (GR 042056). Details on Web site.
  • The Lazy Crofter Bunkhouse at Durness offers quality self-catering accommodation to groups, families and individuals at unbeatable prices. Bunkhouse for up to 20 persons and additional chalet for 5. Contact Robbie and Fiona Mackay. Tel: 01971 511209 or 01971 511366.
  • Sandra's Backpackers Hostel - 24/26 Princes Street, Thurso. 8 dorms (30 beds in total). Kitchen.TV lounge. Internet access. Bike hire. Tel: 01847 894575.

Caravans & Camping:

  • For self-catering, rent one of the 4 Cairnmuir Caravans at Lairg and enjoy a week or more exploring the area. Contact Mrs Eileen Martin, Cairnmuir, Riverside, Lairg, Sutherland, IV27 4EE. Telephone: 01549 402 136.
  • Kirkaig Hill Caravan (at Inverkirkaig by Lochinver) offers fully equipped self catering accomodation for 4 to 6 people. Tel: 01571 844115.
  • Clachtoll Beach Campsite for touring caravans, camper vans and tents. 2.5 acres. All grass. Warden on site. 6 miles north of Lochinver. Open from May to September. Toilet and shower facilities, dishwashing sinks, chemical disposal point and a public telephone. Dogs are welcome (must be kept on a lead).

For more campsites in this area, search ScottishCamping.com

Books & Maps
North West Highlands
One of the lovely Pevensey Guide books, full of info about the area's heritage, landscape, climate, place names, flora and fauna. It covers Loch Ness & Inverness, the Black Isle, Easter Ross, Wester Ross, Sutherland, Caithness, Lochaber & Fort William, Knoydart & Ardnamurchan. 112 pages with over 100 colour photographs.
Order your copy from Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.com
The Sutherland Trail
Written by hillwalker Cameron McNeish and with super photos by Richard Else. Book to accompany the long distance walking route from Lochinver to Tongue, following ancient pathways, stalker's routes and hill tracks. Based on the BBC TV programme.
Hardcover. 160 pages. Published 2009.
Order your copy from Amazon.co.uk
The Cape Wrath Trail
Full of gorgeous photos, this book is a guide to the long distance trail which stretches 200 miles through the remote and spectacular north-west Highlands. Perhaps more for the armchair traveller to enjoy since this is a difficult route to achieve in its entirety in real life. Published in April 2000 by David Paterson. In the same series as his book entitled A Long Walk on the Isle of Skye.
Order your copy from Amazon.co.uk
Exploring the Far North West of Scotland
A Walker's Guide to the Hills, Glens and Coastline of Wester Ross and Sutherland
Useful book with photos and maps.
Hardcover, 144 pages.
Order your copy from Amazon.co.uk
Scottish Highlands and Islands
Latest edition of the popular Rough Guide series exclusively devoted to the Highlands & Islands. One of the top best-selling guide books on Scotland.
Order your copy from Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk

Skye and North West Highlands Walks - a very useful guide available via Amazon.co.uk and Amazon.com

If you intend to go hiking, particularly in the hills, you will need the scale of maps provided by the Landranger series produced by the Ordnance Survey which is the official map agency of the UK. These can be purchased via Amazon in the UK:

External Links:

Highlands of Scotland Tourist Board (brochure request)

Assynt - local web site
Assynt Foundation
Mackay Country
Caithness.org
Helmsdale.org
Alness.com
wildcaithness.org
North Highland Tourism Operators
Caithness Business Index

Caithness Family History Society
Caithness genealogy resource list
Sara Jayne Donaldson: Caithness genealogy researcher

John o'Groat Journal (weekly newspaper)
Am Bratach (monthly news magazine)

Coigach genealogy pages by Donald MacDonald-Ross include local place names

Assynt Photographics - photographic services by Martin Morrison including photos of Assynt to buy

Croft Lotions and Potions - handmade soaps, pet paintings, etc.

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Last update: June 2010